Among the estimated 7,000 students, University of Wisconsin-Madison faculty and the public who attended author Michael Pollan's discussion of his latest book, "In Defense of Food: An Eaters Manifesto," were some 200 Wisconsin farmers.

The farmer delegation came to the Kohl Center on buses chartered by Madison-based feed company Vita Plus to hear for themselves what the much-discussed book was about, direct from Pollan himself. UW-Madison Chancellor Biddy Martin chose the book as the first in her "Go Big Read" program, intended to spark discussion on campus.

The farmers weren't picketing or carrying signs, but their green T-shirts with the words "In Defense of Farming: Eat Food. Be Healthy. Thank Farmers." prompted many attendees, especially students, to stop them and ask questions.

One of the major points of conversation among the farmers after Pollan's presentation was how many students admitted to never having visited a farm or having any first-hand knowledge of how farmers actually raise livestock and grain. The result being that they had gotten all their information from writers like Pollan and others who are often critical of farming practices.

Pollan's presentation offered a basic review of his book with emphasis on the bad things people eat, especially heavily processed foods such as some breakfast cereals, yogurts and white bread.

Although farmers might agree with Pollan's comments on the move toward "nutritionism" whereby by many foods are sold on the basis of good and evil nutrients, they question his references to farmers depleting their soil of its nutrients and milk of its butterfat.

While few farmers have any influence on what form their milk, corn, wheat and oats will appear on a consumer's plate, they sometimes receive the blame from consumer organizations and popular writers for unproven accusations about food.

Pollan (and many writers, local and national) emphasize farmers markets and gardens as a primary source for buying food. Some of the farmers at Thursday's speech suggested that he was speaking to the elite few with the money and time to enjoy the products displayed, the social atmosphere and the brief chance to talk with producers of food at a farmers market.

Farmers ask how many low-income people have the money, time and wherewithal to attend the much-heralded farmers markets. They also wonder how many people have space for a garden or the time for one.

Meanwhile, farmers are raising the food that feeds people worldwide and seemingly with success. Life expectancy rises yearly, children are taller than their parents and athletes run faster and jump higher.

Farmers also know that consumers have the freedom of choice to buy non-fat, 1 percent, 2 percent or whole milk at the supermarket even though the milk comes from the cow at 3.5 percent to 5 percent butterfat.

Mostly, the farmers attending the Pollan event seemed to be worried about how few of the students know anything about farming and have ever seen a farm up close. They'd like to do something about it.

Some farmers suggested that Chancellor Martin's next effort might center on "Visit a Farm," whereby entire classes, special groups or individual students and faculty would take a trip to an actual dairy or livestock farm.

In fact, many of the farmers on the Vita Plus-sponsored buses said they had invited everyone they talked with (and there were a great many) to visit their farms, meet their cows, walk their corn fields and get a taste of where most of the food they eat actually comes from.

Two young women who were enthralled by Pollan's speech, were chomping on nachos and cheese, two of the refined foods he might have been talking about.

Why did they make the decision to not eat apples or carrots?

"We know this stuff is probably not good for us," one explained while giggling. "But, we really like it."

Blaming agriculture for obesity and a host of other ills is popular these days, but farmers resent taking the blame. They are proud to raise good food to feed the world and invite anyone and everyone to get the real story - directly from them.

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