Every Thursday, Underground Butcher at 811 Williamson St. in Madison receives a whole steer from CDK Angus in Lena, Illinois. On a recent morning, butchers Allie Christian, Steve Dawson and Wesley Aniel began to break down full quarters of beef into primal cuts for storage and sale. 

“People can see what we’re doing, the art of what we’re doing,” Christian said, noting how close the breakdown area is to the meat case and shop floor. “Customers are surprised by the sheer size of it. It’s like, ‘Yeah. It’s a cow. That’s what it looks like.’”