In an amusing reversal of the way trends usually go, Wisconsin booze trends are making an impact on New York City bars.
"Wisconsin has exercised an inordinate influence on New York dining and drinking of late," Simonson wrote in Tuesday's New York Times Dining & Wine section.
Stulman used to work at the shuttered Cafe Montmartre. He named one of his newer restaurants after it, and he frequently hires Midwesterners, which big city critics have praised for their "earnest, familiar ... entirely nonthreatening" style of service.
In the Tuesday piece, Simonson highlighted two new spirits from Death's Door Distillery in Middleton, introduced to Madison at this year's Distill America.
"Wondermint is that thing that no one in the craft spirit movement had yet thought of: artisanal peppermint schnapps," he wrote. "Kringle Cream is a rum cream liqueur made to taste like a kringle, a large-form Nordic pastry associated with Racine, Wis.
"Both are proudly provincial and, frankly, a tad down-market."
Simonson, a widely read cocktail writer, has long championed the habits of his home state. His new book, "The Old-Fashioned: The Story of the World's First Classic Cocktail, with Recipes and Lore," was released in mid-May by Ten Speed Press.
In it, he calls the Old Fashioned "as close to an official state drink as the Badger State had."
Now New Yorkers can get variations on the drink, too.
In an interview last fall, Little Wisco beverage manager Brian Bartels said he named one cocktail per restaurant for the places he still remembers fondly: the Memorial Union Old Fashioned, the Devil's Lake Old Fashioned and the Weary Traveler Old Fashioned.
"I'm so influenced by the Wisconsin supper clubs and how they still have this allure," Bartels said.