Burgers & barns: 77 Square hits the road and serves up hidden dining gems

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Burgers & barns: 77 Square hits the road and serves up hidden dining gems
buy this photo JASON KLEIN -- State Journal Authentic regional cuisine, we’re constantly told, is dying, done in by McDonald’s, Wendy’s and Burger King. But fans of “road food” — those out-of-the-way diners, food stands and restaurants tucked into small towns or just off the highways — are determined to prove otherwise.
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Authentic regional cuisine, we’re constantly told, is dying, done in by McDonald’s, Wendy’s and Burger King. But fans of “road food” — those out-of-the-way diners, food stands and restaurants tucked into small towns or just off the highways — are determined to prove otherwise.

RoadFood.com is one website that keeps a running list of user-submitted food favorites around the country. Others include Chowhound.com and Yelp.com. These “roadfoodies” have no qualms about traveling for a great taco or a superlative hot dog. They are unlikely to be swayed by white tablecloths and crystal wine glasses; these folks frequently dine “a la trunk.” And they’re aficionados of regional cuisine, from barbecue to cheese curds to seafood chowders.

A handful of roadfoodies who contribute to RoadFood.com recently met up in Madison to jaw about their favorite spots. That gave our well-traveled (and well-fed) staff the idea to cook up our own list of road food faves.

So as summer gets under way and we take to our cars for trips to the Twin Cities, up north or to the shores of Lake Michigan, we collected a list of great food and drink worthy of a stop along the way — no processed chicken fingers allowed.

As you venture beyond Madison’s 77 square miles, we hope you’ll add your mouth-watering suggestions for road food to our list online, at 77square.com. We all might be staying closer to home these days, but that’s all the more reason to enjoy the kind of food Wisconsin does best.

NEAR MADISON

Aunt Mary’s Hooterville Inn

10992 Division St., Blue Mounds

437-5444, hootervilleinn.com

This is beer batter done right for a Friday night fish fry, a Spotted Cow base to coat the cod and shrimp. And before the P.C. Police get their undies in a bundle about the name, the Hooterville has been called that since back in the days when ’60s sitcom “Petticoat Junction” was based in a tiny fictional town with that name. It’s an easy stop right along the Military Ridge Trail.

Beach House Restaurant and Bar

4506 Larson Beach Road, McFarland

838-7248, beachhousemadison.com

The breathtaking sunsets over Lake Waubesa, with the Capitol dome in the distance, are one reason to come here for dinner. But there are many others, including the outstanding walleye, bluegill and cod, and a Door County-style fish boil. Many people swear that this is the best fish fry destination in the area. Then there are its famous Bloody Marys, made from scratch with horseradish. Save time to stroll out onto the 900-foot pier and splash your feet in the lake.

Lodi Sausage Co. & Meat Market

150 S. Main St., Lodi

592-3534, lodisausage.com

For a cookout on Lake Wisconsin or in the backyard, this meat market in downtown Lodi is a must. The summer sausage is award-winning and sheep casings are used to make homemade wieners that are slowly smoked in the basement.

The company, founded in 1931, is a destination for successful deer hunters each fall while the staff also makes landjaegers (dried beef and pork sticks) and other meat sticks.

The company also does all of its own cutting to fill the retail meat cooler with steaks, chops and loins.

Paoli Pub and Grill

6893 Paoli Road, Paoli

845-8100

In this picturesque 19th century burg, with its mill pond, the Sugar River and beautifully restored stone buildings, the Paoli Pub looks like the ugly stepsister. But if you’ve got burgers on the brain, step inside this squat building and salivate over the juicy, perfectly cooked hand-press patties on fresh bakery buns.

Picnic tables in back can seat 200 or so, and are often occupied by groups of bicyclists and motorcylists passing through town.

Piggly Wiggly

Just off Highway 14

28 Glacier Edge Square, Cross Plains

798-3701, pigglywiggly.com

Drive Highway 14 west and stop at the Piggly Wiggly in Cross Plains and buy a ring of Doc’s bologna — made right there in the store — and a box of saltines. Take along your own Thermos of coffee or buy a six-pack of beer on the way or a couple of those mini bottles of red wine.

Continue on Highway 14 until you get to Otto Festge County Park, about halfway between Cross Plains and Black Earth. Walk through the park to the lookout. Pour drinks for yourself and a friend, unwrap the bologna and use a pocket knife to slice thick circles for your saltines. Sit and talk about life and love, reasons and regrets, hopes and plans.

If it is a special occasion, buy some cheese, too. The view of the countryside is excellent, with spongy green tree canopies framing Black Earth Creek. You can sit comfortably close together on the Adam Phillips Memorial Bench.

Riley Tavern

8205 Klevenville-Riley Road, Verona

845-9150, rileytavern.com

Located just off the Military Ridge Trail, the best way to get here is on two wheels. Indeed, on a warm day, the lot is filled with bicycles. Alongside them mingle two-wheelers of another sort, motorcycles, and it’s likely their riders have the same idea: burgers. The best way to have one is, well, any way you want it: smothered in sauteed onions and swimming with Cheddar? Right on.

Roxbury Tavern

8901 Highway Y, town of Roxbury

(608) 643-8434, roxburytavern.com

Whether it’s a tap of Lake Louie beer from Arena or fresh pork from Willow Creek Farms near Prairie du Sac, the food and drink at Tom Gresser’s Roxbury Tavern is meant to be local. His rural getaway in northwestern Dane County has been a tavern since the repeal of Prohibition in 1933 and was originally built as a grocery store in 1869.

The tavern serves up blueberry and strawberry pancakes on Sunday, with Mexican fare on Tuesdays, Italian on Wednesdays and cajun cooking on Thursdays and Saturdays. Of course Fridays mean fish. Gresser has owned the eclectic business since 1989 but isn’t worried about the smoking ban that goes into effect next month. He banned smoking in his business in 2003. Credit cards are not accepted.

Sjolinds Chocolate House

219 E. Main St., Mt. Horeb

437-0233

The name says it all for the sweet stuff in this coffee/chocolate shop on Mount Horeb’s Main Street. What’s less obvious, and equally mouth-watering, are the quiches that vary daily. Grab a thick, fluffy slice of asparagus Cheddar, crab asiago or broccoli Swiss for a little protein and then dive into the sweets.

SHORT DRIVE

The Dining Room at 209 Main

209 N. Main St., Monticello

(608) 938-2200, 209main.com

Be forewarned: This is more haute cuisine than home cookin’, despite the small-town setting. Don’t expect low prices or pub-style meals. But we couldn’t resist including this gem in our list of worthy stops out on the road.

The Dining Room at 209 Main combines flat-out fantastic food with an elegant but relaxed atmosphere. Flip flops or fancy summer frocks are equally appropriate attire at this white tablecloth Monticello treasure, where the food takes center stage but gallery-worthy textile shows are a treat, too.

If you’re visiting the New Glarus Brewery, consider dinner here. Monticello is five minutes farther south, just off Highway 69. The rolling hills of Green County are verdant farm country, and chef David (Wave) Kasprzak has a deft hand combining the best of local products with fresh seafood and international flavors. The signature dessert — sticky toffee pudding with roasted pecans — is worth a trip by itself.

Reservations are recommended. Hours are Wednesday through Saturday, 5 to 9:30 p.m.

Grandma’s Kitchen

503 Main St., Highland

(608) 929-7482

Be prepared to eat at Grandma’s Kitchen in downtown Highland. The 35-seat cafe about 65 miles west of Madison in western Iowa County is known for its hearty $6 lunch specials that can include roast beef and mashed potatoes with carrots, meatloaf and chicken that is first pan-fried then baked and served with dressing.

But save room for dessert. Tess Bomkamp, 54 with four grandchildren, opened the restaurant in 2001 and has made it a pie oasis. Banana cream, raisin, apple, cherry and homemade custard are among the flavors that can be savored here or, if you’re too full, taken home to enjoy. It closes at 2 p.m. Monday through Thursday, at 8 p.m. on Friday, at 1 p.m. on Saturdays and is closed on Sunday.

Hook’s Cheese Company

320 Commerce St., Mineral Point

(608) 987-3259, hookscheese.com

Those who don’t want to fight the crowds who cluster around Tony and Julie Hook’s stand at the Dane County Farmers’ Market can head to Mineral Point on Friday mornings. The factory store is open from 4 a.m. to 2 p.m., with the fresh curds coming available at about 10 a.m. There’s no sampling like at the farmers’ market, just shopping.

John’s Drive-In

1317 Arcadian Ave., Waukesha

(262) 542-2842

In the mood for some all-American dining? Nothing hits the spot like the gut-busting grub served up at John’s Drive-In.

The extensive menu features classics like sloppy joes, chili dogs and cheese fries, but what makes John’s famous is the refreshing, sweet root beer.

Forget about A&W, you’ve never tasted anything like John’s homemade root beer. Order a float or take home a gallon to share. The drive-in is open year round and hosts car shows every first Thursday in the summer months.

Lauber’s Old Fashion Ice Cream

2010 Church St., East Troy

(262) 642-3679

Visiting J. Lauber’s Ice Cream Parlor feels like walking into a favorite childhood memory. Its massive candy counter leads back toward cozy booths, a jukebox, and treasures gathered from historic ice cream shops around Wisconsin.

There’s a reason the East Troy spot has been serving up malteds, phosphates, and all kinds of ice cream sundaes for more than 30 years — it’s amazing.

We recommend the dusty road sundae, complete with a dusting of malt powder.

Little Village Café

146 4th Ave., Baraboo

(608) 356-2800, littlevillagecafe.com

More than a few Downtown diners shed tears when the Little Village Café closed on King Street years ago. But the original owners of the café have been cooking up the same heavenly burritos, blackened fish sandwiches and Caesar salads since they opened a second café in a charming diner, complete with two horseshoe-shaped counters, in downtown Baraboo.

Favorites include the Southwestern chicken burrito, topped with cumin sauce, and the vegetarian burrito, chock full of sautéed zucchini, mushrooms, broccoli, corn and beans and rice.

It’s all well worth the short drive from Madison.

Mullen’s Dairy Bar

210 W. Main St., Watertown

(920) 261-4278

Founded in 1932, Mullen’s is a throwback. Owners Troy and Shannon Milbrath bought the downtown institution in 2006 but have maintained its charm and history, and continue to make their own ice cream.

The menu includes hamburgers, fish, salads, wraps and sweet potato fries. The soda fountain remains intact and is used to make a variety of carbonated drinks.

Their malts and shakes are a meal, and for the adventurous, the “Bigger Than Bill,” a sundae named after former owner Bill Mullen, includes 10 scoops of ice cream and a pile of toppings for $11.35.

Red Rooster Cafe

158 High St., Mineral Point

(608) 987-9936

Pasties are preferred at this Mineral Point mainstay. The popular beef-and-potato-filled pie is a nod to the area’s Cornish tradition — the lead miners who once populated the area would pack pasties for lunch because they were filling fare that was easy to take along. Red Rooster’s tasty pot pie is a variation on the same theme. Or early risers might seek a hearty breakfast at 5 a.m., when the Rooster opens every day.

Stooges Sports Bar

112 N. Spring St., Beaver Dam

(920) 885-9878

The walls are adorned with Nascar memorabilia and the requisite nods to the Packers and the Badgers of course. But the bar’s big secret comes in a tall glass with a beer chaser, if you fancy one. The Bloody Mary is a thing of beauty: Made from scratch every time, this concoction is spicy and refreshing and very easy to guzzle. Got a taste for garnish? Here, you’ll get a meal, and it’s always different: olives, mushrooms, pickled asparagus, little beef sticks — it’s a buffet on a cocktail pick.

Upper Krust

1300 Memorial Drive, Watertown

(920) 206-9202, upperkrustpieshop.com

With flavors such as Amish custard, caramel pumpkin pecan, double chocolate brownie and pineapple cream, the Upper Krust serves the best of the best when it comes to their specialty pies.

All pies-of-the-day are made fresh, and whole pies of any flavor can be ordered in advance to take home. The Upper Krust also serves fresh-made soups and sandwiches, and has a Sunday brunch with more extensive offerings from 9 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Stop by for a bite when visiting Watertown’s historic downtown, or buzz over before or after a day of shopping at the Johnson Creek outlets.

Water Street Place

202 W. Water St., Shullsburg

(608) 965-3228, waterstreetplace.com

The pub and inn on Shullsburg’s picturesque Water Street claims to have the “best burgers east of the Mississippi” and it’s kind of hard to argue. The Bleuburger isn’t just topped with Wisconsin blue, it’s mixed right in with the meat.

The family-friendly place was once an old bank, and the vault and safe are still in use by the bar part of the business. In fact, there’s a burger called the Chicago Blackie (smothered in beer-battered jalapenos, melted pepperjack cheese and a creamy cilantro lime spread). It’s named after the man who robbed the joint in 1925. Despite his name, he was from St. Louis.

LONG HAUL

Norske Nook

13804 7th St., Osseo

(800) 294-6665, norskenook.com

It’s almost three hours away, but if you’re road tripping to the Twin Cities, a stop at this restaurant and bakery is mandatory. The real draw is the pie, including award-winning apple cream cheese, baked strawberry, snickers, pecan stout, peach melba and maple raisin. It’s so popular, it’s expanded to locations in Eau Claire, Hayward and Rice Lake.

Pete’s Hamburgers

118 W. Blackhawk Ave., Prairie du Chien

No phone

One of the state’s oldest communities has one of the oldest hamburger stands, too. Pete’s Hamburgers was started in 1909 by Pete Gokey and his family continues to run the walk-up stand to this day. The menu is small but the lines can form quickly as fresh ground beef is cooked in a shallow bath of water and smothered in onions. No pickles or lettuce. Just ketchup and mustard to go on the locally baked buns.

Save your appetite for weekends as Pete’s is only open from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Fridays through Sundays from about late April to mid October.

 

Copyright 2012 madison.com. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.

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