Pierre Birebent, winemaker at Signorello Estate on the Silverado Trail in Napa Valley, has known devastating fire before. His family lost vineyards and their wine business to politically charged fires in Corsica decades ago. So when the Northern California fires were encroaching on the Signorello property last month, Pierre and his vineyard crew defiantly faced down the flames with a hose, until the fire department arrived and ordered him off the property for his safety.

While the hospitality center did not make it through the wildfires, the vineyards and barrel room did. Signorello is still in business with this wine and others for sale through their website (signorelloestate.com), in retail shops, and restaurant wine lists. Richly textured with black fruit and spice complexity, this is everything you could want in a powerfully styled Napa Valley cab.

Catherine Bugue is the Star’s tasting panel writer. Her weekly pursuit of a good glass of wine provides a nice supply of choices for the Wine of the Week column. If you’d like to submit a Napa Valley wine for this column, please send it to the Napa Valley Wine Academy, 2501 Oak St., Napa, CA 94559. There’s no guarantee your wine will be chosen to be featured, but all wines will be evaluated and considered.